Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre is a collection of 5 (thus the cinque) pedestrian only towns perched on the edge of the Mediterranean. But you knew that: this was the first time since leaving SFO that we were completely surrounded by Americans almost all of the time. The towns are linked via roads that connect to their rears, trains, ferries, and a set of marvelous trails that run through the Cinque Terre national park in and out of the towns. The trails and the boats were the only means of transport until the 20th century.

We walked three of the four primary connecting trails (we tried to ignore the ‘closed’ sign at the head of the trail from Corniglia to Manorolo, but then when we came to the locked rusted iron gate, we decided that we would play by the rules.) One of the things that you learn about these trails is that the presence or absence of a No High Heels sign means something very important. Where they are allowed, the trail is completely flat, paved, and dotted (rather dashed) with benches from which a well dressed lady (or cross dresser) could rest their weary feet and stare at the Mediterranean.

Where they are not allowed, the trail primarily consists of crazy steep narrow stairs and ledges, one-person-at-a-time-or-you-both-go-falling-off-a-cliff-kind-of-thing. When we first saw the estimated 1.5 hour time for a 4 km trail we thought: ah, they timed it for old folk. We were wrong, they timed it exactly for us, the sheets of sweat we left at various points along the climbs, and the shards of our patellas we left along the descents.

The trails hug the hillsides and weave in and out of terraced vineyards, olive orchards, steep cliffs without much growth at all, and some rare sections with the plant life that nature intended (although one could argue that nature intended Italy to be covered in vineyards and olive trees, and we would most likely be quick to agree). Every now and then, the trail would duck behind someone’s fenced off garden and the aroma of basil would be almost overwhelming. Peaking in we could see beautiful tomatoes, summer squashes, and, of course, grapes and olives.

We crossed paths with many other hikers (this being the thing to do in Cinque Terre, and Cinque Terre being Club Med and all) and they were mostly happy, tired and very friendly. Towards the end of the hard trails, when we were finishing the final descents and passing folk starting their initial climb, Kate would lean over and say: “I’m not optimistic about that group”: folks not quite prepared for how hard the trail actually was. Some with swarms of children, some with wholly improper footwear, some that just looked surly (it is not a trail for surly people). It was always depressing to have to answer the question “Are we almost to the top?”

It’s pretty rewarding to finish a hard hike in a beautiful Italian town with your choice of restaurant, and there to have a nice lunch, some mineral water, and a half liter of wine. With the morning caffe corretto, the evening beer and the dinnertime wine, we’re building up quite a tolerance (and also possibly eroding our livers).