Santa Teresa di Gallura

(written on Saturday Oct 2)

Pia, the ever fashionable proprietor of the wine cellar cum vacation rental we have been staying in the last week came to check us out and drive us to the bus today. She asked about where we were going next and we gave her a quick itinerary, at least as far as we know: Ferry to Sardinia landing in the town of Santa Teresa di Gallura for a night, then a bus to Sassari and one night there followed by two nights in Alghero. Pia listened and then looked concerned. She said, “but you must understand, Santa Teresa, there is nothing there.” We assured her that we were only there for one night and would be fine. I will grant her that it was a sleepy town, but it is in a strikingly beautiful location and full of people, good food and lovely beaches and hiking spots. We keep walking around saying to each other, "nothing huh" as we saw another vista or wondered another cute street.

We are staying in a B&B run by a young couple. She teaches Italian to Americans in Rome during the off season. She was excited we were American, she smiled when she saw Andrew’s driver license and said, “oh your American you are only the second ones” We said “in the house today?” She said, “no all year, you are only the second Americans all year.” Then we talked about the difference between American English (easy to understand) and British English (hard to understand). The house is her grandmother’s grandmother’s and it is colorful and filled with pictures of her family, both recent and very old. Ian would have to duck to get through many of the doors. Our room has 2 balconies onto the Piazza which is really charming right now-- it might be less charming at bedtime, we shall see. The husband reminded us of Donato (Andrew’s cousin Courtnay’s husband) he is tall, lanky and has long dreadlocks. He is a bartender and answered all of Andrew’s questions about local drinks. He even gave us a sample of homemade Mirto, a liquor made from a berry of a local tree, one of which is growing on our balcony.

As the sun goes down the Piazza is given over to the kids to play soccer. They are having a great time. I keep trying to imagine kids taking over a public space like this at home-- never would happen without getting adults in a tizzy.